Colour is undoubtedly a significant element of any design. It not only garners the customer attention but it is also a crucial tool to establish certain feelings amongst the potential customers towards a particular product. The appropriate use of colours in the outfits helps in colour symbolism which helps the client to become associated with a merchandise of a particular colour.
The Indian fashion designers have always been famous for an impressive use of colours in their marvellous designs. This discussion would acquaint you all to the unique manner in which three fashion designers from India use colour as an effective medium to communicate the concept behind their remarkable collections. The three noted designers who have employed this principle time and again in their career are- Manish Arora, Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Masaba Gupta.
Masaba Gupta and Her Dynamic Choice of Colours
We shall now discuss about a female fashion designer whose unorthodox design language is conspicuously present in her work, she is none other than Masaba Gupta.
The tagline of her label- ‘Different is beautiful‘ exhibits her eccentric design philosophy.
The bright prints of the outfits by Masaba depict a lot of stories which are quite understandable to the potential customers.
The Spring Summer 2017 collection of Masaba was titled Cocktail hour. It represented the quirky aspect of her vibrant designs. All the outfits were made up of a brighter colour palette in order to showcase the life of a women in the modern era. Every attire represented a story through the usage of vintage motifs which were inspired from the Indian culture.
Pink Coloured Outfit from the ‘Cocktail Hour’ (Credits: https://m.economictimes.com)
In 2018, the Summer collection of Masaba Gupta consisted of ethnic attires of different shades of pink, indigo, green, mustard yellow and gold. It included sarees, anarkali suits, lehengas, kaftans amongst others. All these outfits had an appealing combination of contrasting colours.
Both Masaba and Rhea Kapoor collaborated together for a 15 piece limited edition in 2019 which had an interesting design composition. This edition was quite interesting due to its distinctive colour tone and creative silhouettes of the entire range. Jacket- Skirt Sets, Off- Shoulder ruffle Organza Saree and Bold Jacket-Dhoti Sets were the highlights from this range.
Brown Lehenga Set with a Typography Print (Credits: https://www.azafashions.com)
Her 2021 collection included a unique print which was called Rajasthan. It was created with hand drawn designs which were paired with rusting orange and cream colour in order to justify the emotive elements associated with that design.
“Patiala Portraits” is the latest collection of Masaba. The designer has enormously experimented with the colour patterns, embroidery and types of outfits. The entire concept corresponds with the cultural identity of the modern Indian women. The most memorable attires within it were as follows-
• The Handcrafted Red Bagh-e-Bahaar Lehenga
• The Beautiful Black Coloured Son-Chidhiya Co-Ord Set
• The Ochre Neel-Kamal Lehenga
The Bridal Lehenga from Patiala Portraits (Credits: https://m.indulgexpress.com)
Manish Arora and his Multi-coloured Collections
Another designer who is known for selecting a kaleidoscopic colour palette for his outfits is Manish Arora.
His designs consist of a diverse array of colours which correspond to the colour of a butterfly. His innovative and experimentative approach is reflected in his colourful collections. Even the usage of diverse raw materials like feather, plastic and unconventional fabric by Manish Arora helps in distinguishing his work from others.
Candy Enamel Bangles with Mirror Ring from Manish Arora Amrapali Collection (Credits: https://www.thejewelleryeditor.com)
The fact that he is often referred to as the John Galliano of India symbolizes the amount of appreciation he has garnered through his appealing work.
In 2001, Arora launched his second label called Fish Fry. In 2006,’Fish Fry‘ collection of Manish Arora which was launched in collaboration with Reebok became immensely popular. For this, He worked with Reebok and came up with an exclusive footwear collection for women. He was the first Indian fashion designer to collaborate with a sportswear brand which had an international market.
The fact that made ‘Fish Fry’ widely popular was its compatibility with the cosmopolitan market. The entire range had 12 footwear designs in total which were made up of leather, suede and a specialized fabric.
Manish Arora collaborated with Amrapali Jewels in the 2013 Spring Summer Collection and launched ‘India Enchanted‘. This featured necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings and accessories. The distinctive aspect about this collection was the extensive use of the traditional art of Meenakari (enamelling) in the antique jewelleries of the brand. It came as a breakthrough in the Indian fashion industry due to the variety of the patterns utilized in its creation. The elements which were widely used by him throughout his work were as follows-
☆ Hearts
☆ Lotus Flowers
☆ Tigers
☆ Antelopes
Animal Imagery was a significant feature of this collection. This even included the designs which were inspired from the Royal Bengal Tiger and the Gazelle. These animals are a major part of the cultural heritage of India.
The Royal Bengal Ring from Manish Arora Amrapali Collection (Credits: https://www.thejewelleryeditor.com)
In 2014, Manish Arora and Amrapali Jewels again came up with a jewellery line which was greatly influenced by a peculiar craft of Rajasthan- the Hansli Jewellery. The female members of the society wear necklace which is called Hansli.
The most prominent features of that jewellery line were-
• Geometric Motifs
• Kaleidoscopic Mirage Forms
• Iridescent Stones
• Vivid Beads
• Lacquer Coating
The colour theme of the jewelleries was quite interesting. The following colours were used in them-
▪Blue
▪Green
▪Pink
All these shades were combined with subtle use of black colour.
The most famous pieces from this collection were –
•Jewelled Collar
•Astral Bangle
•Celeste Necklace
• Faye Ring
•Cosmos Head Accessory
In the Paris Fashion Week 2018, Manish came up with a distinguishing feature in his collection. He came up with such clothing line which was inspired by a China based character known as ‘Tuzki‘. Orange colour was used extensively in the outfits of this collection.
2018 Paris Fashion Week Collection of Manish Arora (Credits: https://www.vogue.in)
Sabyasachi Mukherjee: A Valuable Treasure of the Indian Fashion Industry
This discussion would remain incomplete without enumerating the outstanding contribution of a fashion designer who has highlighted the fascinating characteristics of Indian fashion on the global map. His name doesn’t need any introduction in the fashion industry- Sabyasachi Mukherjee as it has become synonymous with exclusivity, luxury and rich cultural heritage of India in the recent years. The thoughtful use of colours across all his designs makes them enticing.
Sabyasachi primarily believes in the notion that the core is more important than the periphery. This ideology is a fundamental aspects behind all his collections.
This has been illustrated in majority of his wedding collections wherein he has chosen various shades of red due to the resonance of the colour with the traditional beliefs.
In the 2015 Lakme Fashion Week, his show entitled as ‘Big Love‘ featured a diverse range of fabrics and colours. Jumpsuits with Bell-Bottoms, Brocade Sherwani Suits, Sheer Net-Caps, Embellished Gowns, Boleros and Printed Lehengas were the clothing categories presented at that event. This initiative was undertaken by the designer in order to highlight the glorious aspect of Indian fashion in the seventies era. The idea was very much evident in each and every attire presented during the show.
The following colour combinations were used in ‘Big Love’-
▪Stark Black and Gold
▪Dazzling Floral Prints
▪Lustrous Metallic Shades
Sabyasachi has always believed that the subjective interpretation of the consumer’s about his designs would help his label become relevant as well as timeless in nature.
The Firdaus couture winter collection of 2016 by Sabyasachi involved the usage of bright shades with an exquisite range of fabrics and embroideries. This consisted of the kaftans, long jackets and dresses.
This collection caught the attention of a lot of people when Kanika Dhankar wore the fun lined jacket adorned with sequinned culottes and heels from this range.
Floor Length Jacket from Firdaus Collection (Credits: https://m.weddingz.in)
The 2019 Spring Summer collection of Sabyasachi Mukherjee was referred to as ‘Fiza‘. This name itself connotes freshness. It included organdy couture, chintz florals, and aesthetic jewellery wherein the traditional motifs were combined with the contemporary fashion. The vibrant colour tone of the entire range showcased its essence in a remarkable manner.
In his 2020 Spring Summer (The Neo Bohemian) collection, Sabyasachi came up with a new style by combining colour blocking and monochromes with the global trends. This was a splendid effort in the Indian fashion industry which reflected the essence of the Bohemian culture. There was a wide range of clothing that was offered in this line – Sharara, Garara, Saree, Lehenga, Sherwani, Kurtas, Suits and Jewellery line. The entire range was given a modern touch in the following ways-
▪Pant Style Fittings of Salwar
▪V Shaped Neckline in the Top
▪An Additional Frill in the Blouses
The whole theme was centered around the fascinating play of colours which also evident across all the designs. The following colour shades were used in this collection-
▪Burgundy
▪Midnight Blue and Black
▪Pink and Red
▪Orange
The Neo Bohemian Collection 2020 (Credits:https://www.lifestyleasia.com)
It was clearly evident throughout this discussion that colours have been a crucial aspect behind the creative perspective of each of the above mentioned eminent personalities. This will also propel each one of us to perfectly contemplate upon the significance of different hues in the Indian fashion industry. Please take note of this observable fact the next time you come across the commendable work of the aforementioned Indian fashion designers.
